Is There a Burgundy in the (Sugar) House?

Michael Stephens - Discovering Burgundies of distinction 

"If indeed the main shippers will always have a central role in the production and marketing of Burgundy, I established the shipping company VINS DIVINS to focus on rare, top quality Burgundies from small estates in Chablis, the Côte d'Or, the Mâconnnais, Chalonnais and Beaujolais. For I am convinced that when a conscientious grower cultivates a prime vineyard site and also has a solid grounding in methods of vinification and ageing wine, a more authentic, more characterful wine will result." - Michael Stephens ============== http://www.divine-burgundy-wine.com/

It was a pleasant afternoon in the rustic, but sunny, courtyard of the Sugar House pub - actually just the service entrance of a dive bar overlooking the busy I-75 expressway. We are in Corktown, a Detroit neighborhood fighting to emerge from the grime and ashes of the Great Depression. As bright as are the newly painted alley walls, still, you don't want to be here after dark. A terrific afternoon to appreciate the glint of sunlight on the bright ruby colors of pinot noir from Burgundy. I mention the outdoor venue, because this is only the first time this year we could do this outdoors! Spirits were elevated!

 

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And what a pleasure to meet a this procurer of fine Burgundies, Michael Stephens of Manchester. He tells me, in his proper English accent, that he has been living in Burgundy for over 35 years now. He walks the vineyards and visits and eats with the local growers and producers, large and small - searching for those that bring out the essence of Burgundy - transparent wines that highlight the different soils of Burgundy. On a infographic of a cross section of the Cote d'Or, he points out how the underlying limestone bed is closer to the surface in some areas, but lies deeper in other areas like under the hill of Corton. The soils can vary so much - just a meter away - thus resulting in differences in taste. This explains why there are so many flavors in Burgundy wines, even though they are all made of the same chardonnay or pinot noir grape.

 

 

I was greeted heartily by longtime acquaintaince and friend, Micheal Korn, one of Woodberry's reps.Always rather shaggy in appearance, but big with the smiles, as he is involved in a rock band in his off times. He hands me a large glass - glinting in the sun. There is a discussion about whether to start with the whites, per American custom, or the reds, as do the French. I can't wait to dive into the whites, buried in ice-filled buckets that reflect the sun, like a tray of fine diamonds. White burgundy shows it's colors so much better in the sun! There is so much to like, the ___ has a touch of oak

on the nose and light, creamy flavors. While the Meursault "Les Genevieres" has a crisp citrus/peach aromas and flavors that dance around the tongue! Exciting!

 

 

Now, let's give the reds a try. If the sun brought the white wines to life, it really exploded with shimmering streaks of light darting in the delicate, bright cherry-red colors of the see-through red wines!!  The outdoor air highlights the delicate aromas, as the Pauget Bourgogne jumped out ot the glass with a red cherry aroma and juicy, tart, red cherry flavors.

 

 

But, then Mr. Stephens came over with this bottle in hand, "I brought this one over in my suitcase. It's the new 2013 Cote de Nuits-Villages "Aux Faulques" release. OMG, this filled the glass, big in the nose, flitting sweet essence of cherry, intermingled with delicate herbal tones. The flavor also, was light, delicate, but teeming with flavors that constantly changed: tart, red charries, darker berry hints, was that a touch of vanilla? tarragon? I kept wanting to sip and sip again, to hold onto at least one flavor, the better to try to identify it. But, alas, it just wouldn't stay still.

 

The Roux lineup was also excellent - each unique, but each exhibiting precise, fresh aromas and flavors. Mr. Stephens looks for wines of clarity that express the twrroir they were grown.

 

 

The Chablis labels were excellent, too. Each possessed zingy citrus acidity and long finishes.

 

 

The Thibert Pouilly-Fuisse, from the southern Burgundy area of the Macon, is one o f my perrenial favorites. I have been enjoying it for decades. It did not dissappoint. Lovely floral aromas and crisp citrus acidity with a long, flavorfull finish. Who could ask anything more?

 

What a way to greet the first nice day of spring.