Chateau Angelus makes a House Call

When I was first introduced to wine, an experienced friend (Bill Waldmann) invited me to join him to Gibbs Worldwide Wines (at Harper and Gratiot) on the east side of Detroit. This was back in 1972.

There, I met Tim McCarthy - a big, friendly gentleman - who took me under his wing. He picked out my first mixed case of wine. "Try them, soak off the labels and number them in the order that you liked them." (Years later, he bought a shop in Detroit's Eastern Farmer's Market and called it Cost Plus. It's still there - run by his kids - the second generation.)

The only bottle that I remember from that mixed case, is a 1970 Château l'Angelus red Bordeaux from Saint-Emilion. It was a smooth, elegant, almost light red wine with mysterious hints of earth, forest floor and mushrooms. It cost me $6.99.

The name derives from the vineyard location near the center of the town of Saint-Emilion, surrounded by three churches that would ring their bells, as was the custom, at 6am, noon and 6pm. This was called "the angelus".

In 2012 Chateau Angelus was elevated to Grand Cru Classe A - with perennial icons Cheval Blanc and Chateau Ausone. Note the bottle (pictured at the bottom) of the gold label designed for the 2012 vintage bottle - a celebration of the elevation.

Today, thanks to another friend, I was able to host (in my home) the current owner of the property, now called Château Angelus, M. Jean-Bernard (JB) Grenie. He is a very pleasant, affable guy with a penchant for cowboy hats. We had a great time. He tells me that the winemaker/owner that made the 1970 wine that I had, still lives on the property. He's 94 years old.

We sampled 6 wines: Daugay 2011 (his wife's Château) - up front fruit, medium weight, some tannins. 

Château Bellevue 2012 (property across the street that they share a partnership) - 100% Merlot, big berry aromas, big juicy berry flavors.

Le Carillon de l'Angelus 2014 and 2012 - sometimes referred as the 2nd wine, it's actually separate properties that are not contiguous to the home vineyard - purchases that were made over the last 20 years - so, actually, a separate brand. A blend of mostly Merlot and Cab. Franc (the 2012 also had 25% Cab. Sauv.). Very elegant, suave with the younger wine showing great stuffing: bright, rich fruit with plenty of structure, but not intrusive.

Finally, the 2011 and 2007 Château Angelus home property! Medium bodied, smooth, elegant, softened tannins, with that great haunting earth and forest floor - especially the 2007. They were singing!

But, prices are now about $450-500 - per bottle.

Hhhhhhh.....

Getting in the Funk Zone - the Santa Barbara Wine Trail

Then it was on to the downtown area. Located just two blocks from the beach, between Cabrillo Blvd. and Highway 101, is Santa Barbara’s unusually hip neighborhood.

Known as The Funk Zone, it was originally an industrial area taken over by artists who have turned the abandoned warehouses into studios. In addition to artist galleries you’ll find wineries, tasting rooms, farm-to-table restaurants, unique shops, a micro brewery and Santa Barbara’s first distillery.

First we hit Corks n'Crowns, voted the Best Urban Wine Trail Tasting Room - 2014. Decorated like an old weather-worn fishing shack - is that Urban chic? Like a wine bar, it offers wine "flights" of small samples, by the glass or by the bottle. A wide selection of domestic and imported wines are offered. We tried a flight of Pinots - from Santa Barbara and Burgundy. They also offer craft beer, too. Fun, enticing ... but a little expensive - watch your wallet.

Next stop: The Kunin Wines Tasting Room, just down the street.

On the Trail to Santa Barbara

While visiting friends in the area, we took a day trip to Santa Barbara. We explored a couple areas that knowing friends had recommended. What an fun, funky way to enjoy the day!

Driving up from the south, we first happened upon a sign to Montecito, a hip spot outside Santa Barbara. We remembered a recommendation of a friend. He went to school with the son of the family that owns and runs a well-known eatery. The Cava Restaurant (http://www.cavarestaurant.com/) is a Mexi-Cali themed restaurant that is a little upscale.

A cozy, yellow  interior is matched by a warm greeting and immediate offering of chips and salsa. The decor also features many original pen & ink sketches of the local motifs. The pottery decorating the walls and fireplace are also original art works. There are many interesting selections on the wine list, including many Spanish labels, especially featuring several from the Lopez de Heredia winery.

Original pen & ink drawings

A warm, corner fireplace shows off  pottery of a local artist.

A corner dedicated to the Spanish winery, Lopez de Heredia.

A great place to stop before exploring the Santa Barbara wineries of the Funk Zone!

Is There a Burgundy in the (Sugar) House?

Michael Stephens - Discovering Burgundies of distinction 

"If indeed the main shippers will always have a central role in the production and marketing of Burgundy, I established the shipping company VINS DIVINS to focus on rare, top quality Burgundies from small estates in Chablis, the Côte d'Or, the Mâconnnais, Chalonnais and Beaujolais. For I am convinced that when a conscientious grower cultivates a prime vineyard site and also has a solid grounding in methods of vinification and ageing wine, a more authentic, more characterful wine will result." - Michael Stephens ============== http://www.divine-burgundy-wine.com/

It was a pleasant afternoon in the rustic, but sunny, courtyard of the Sugar House pub - actually just the service entrance of a dive bar overlooking the busy I-75 expressway. We are in Corktown, a Detroit neighborhood fighting to emerge from the grime and ashes of the Great Depression. As bright as are the newly painted alley walls, still, you don't want to be here after dark. A terrific afternoon to appreciate the glint of sunlight on the bright ruby colors of pinot noir from Burgundy. I mention the outdoor venue, because this is only the first time this year we could do this outdoors! Spirits were elevated!

 

Click for larger version

 

And what a pleasure to meet a this procurer of fine Burgundies, Michael Stephens of Manchester. He tells me, in his proper English accent, that he has been living in Burgundy for over 35 years now. He walks the vineyards and visits and eats with the local growers and producers, large and small - searching for those that bring out the essence of Burgundy - transparent wines that highlight the different soils of Burgundy. On a infographic of a cross section of the Cote d'Or, he points out how the underlying limestone bed is closer to the surface in some areas, but lies deeper in other areas like under the hill of Corton. The soils can vary so much - just a meter away - thus resulting in differences in taste. This explains why there are so many flavors in Burgundy wines, even though they are all made of the same chardonnay or pinot noir grape.

 

 

I was greeted heartily by longtime acquaintaince and friend, Micheal Korn, one of Woodberry's reps.Always rather shaggy in appearance, but big with the smiles, as he is involved in a rock band in his off times. He hands me a large glass - glinting in the sun. There is a discussion about whether to start with the whites, per American custom, or the reds, as do the French. I can't wait to dive into the whites, buried in ice-filled buckets that reflect the sun, like a tray of fine diamonds. White burgundy shows it's colors so much better in the sun! There is so much to like, the ___ has a touch of oak

on the nose and light, creamy flavors. While the Meursault "Les Genevieres" has a crisp citrus/peach aromas and flavors that dance around the tongue! Exciting!

 

 

Now, let's give the reds a try. If the sun brought the white wines to life, it really exploded with shimmering streaks of light darting in the delicate, bright cherry-red colors of the see-through red wines!!  The outdoor air highlights the delicate aromas, as the Pauget Bourgogne jumped out ot the glass with a red cherry aroma and juicy, tart, red cherry flavors.

 

 

But, then Mr. Stephens came over with this bottle in hand, "I brought this one over in my suitcase. It's the new 2013 Cote de Nuits-Villages "Aux Faulques" release. OMG, this filled the glass, big in the nose, flitting sweet essence of cherry, intermingled with delicate herbal tones. The flavor also, was light, delicate, but teeming with flavors that constantly changed: tart, red charries, darker berry hints, was that a touch of vanilla? tarragon? I kept wanting to sip and sip again, to hold onto at least one flavor, the better to try to identify it. But, alas, it just wouldn't stay still.

 

The Roux lineup was also excellent - each unique, but each exhibiting precise, fresh aromas and flavors. Mr. Stephens looks for wines of clarity that express the twrroir they were grown.

 

 

The Chablis labels were excellent, too. Each possessed zingy citrus acidity and long finishes.

 

 

The Thibert Pouilly-Fuisse, from the southern Burgundy area of the Macon, is one o f my perrenial favorites. I have been enjoying it for decades. It did not dissappoint. Lovely floral aromas and crisp citrus acidity with a long, flavorfull finish. Who could ask anything more?

 

What a way to greet the first nice day of spring.

Wehr on Flipboard

As a wine educator, I like to scour the web and save articles that might be useful in presenting concepts to the class. But, where to save them? In searching for suitable programs and methods of saving, cataloging and retrieving these saved articles, I have found two programs of particular usefulness. However, for different reasons.

The online program, Pocket (https://getpocket.com) is available on many platforms that I use: desktop, iPad, Android (Samsung phones). And they automatically synchronize on the web. Plus there is a widget that can be installed on any desktop browser. So, when I run into an article I like, I just click the widget button in the menu bar and, presto, it's added to Pocket. Then it allows me to search for articles using keywords and I can print off a copy to present to the class. Very handy and simple!

Another exciting addition is the "online magazine" program, Flipboard (https://flipboard.com/). Again, with little effort, using the online widgets or apps, an article can be "flipped" into your magazine. The cool thing is that this 'magazine' is now available to others to view, read, like and follow using the app.

Flipboard presents the article as the lead page of a magazine article - a lead photo and brief intro paragraph describing the article. The reader "flips" thru the pages of the magazine until he/she finds an interesting article, clicks, and the full article pops open.

There's a lot more involved - you can have multiple magazines for different interests, and you can follow other magazines from experts in the fields that interest you, etc. And vice-versa, others can follow your magazines. You can even "flip" cool articles from others to yours.

Download the app on your phone and check out "Wehr Wine" at https://flipboard.com/@mtwehr/wehr-wine-n5tonnhry Follow me and I'll follow you.

Wines of Croatia and Slovenia - New Varietals

Wow! I had a real eye-opening experience the other day.. new wine regions, new varietals, new friends. The local wine bar had brought in a small wine importer, Vinum USA, from New Jersey. Their wine rep., Ilya, was filling us in on the world of wines from Croatia and Slovenia. These are areas in which I have found very little in the literature and even less available on store shelfs. So I was eager to learn more and full of questions. Lately, some have mentioned the wines of this areas as the "next big thing to be discovered."

     Slovenia is bordered to the north by Austria, to the west by Italy, to the south by Croatia and to the east by Hungary.  Slovenia used to be part of Yugoslavia and wine has been produced here since before Roman times. So, why don't we know about all of this rich history? Because for decades, until the early 1990's, Slovenia was under communist rule. Their wines were made under government-controlled cooperatives. There really was not much produced with a focus for high quality or export. As Slovenia became independent from their communist rule, innovation in winemaking, vineyard replanting and experimentation brought forth some fast, delicious results.

Pullus 2011 Pinot Grigio, Stajerska, Slovenia

A MUST buy! When you pour it out of the bottle, its pinkish hue might surprise you. The pinot grigio grape's skin has a pinkish to purple color to it when very ripe. This coupled with a long maceration time (when the skins have contact with the juice in the fermentation tank) creates this unique color. Fruity and crisp. A perfect summer wine--and your friends will thinks it's a rosé!

The nuances of this wine are expressed in the bouquet, which hints at ripe pears and overripe melons. The intense bouquet gives the wine a full aftertaste, which is due to the extended maceration. The creamy aftertaste, which is typical of aging on lees, completes this wine. This is a serious Pinot Grigio produced and bottled by <a href="http://www.pullus.si/first" target="blank">Pullus-Ptujska Klet</a>

Kozlovic 2012 Malvasia, Istria, Croatia

Croatia's pretty north-western peninsula of Istria, on the Italian and Slovenian borders, is a pastoral expanse of ancient forests, traditional villages and gently rolling farmland on the Adriatic. Famously fertile, over 110 small-scale wineries and 145 olive oil producers have sprung up across the region in the last 20 years, developing its reputation as Croatia's best corner for foodies.  http://www.madisonwinecellar.com/wine-store/wine/82-kozlovic-malvasia/ 

The Kozlovic family have been making wine in the Istrian region of Croatia since 1904. The winery is run by Gianfranco and Antonella Kozlovic and they currently cultivate 17 hectares of vineyards. Their speciality is the Malvasija or Malvasia grape. The grape originated in Greece but has found its real qualitative home in these vineyards in the north of Croatia.

The wine is fermented in stainless steel at controlled temperatures to retain all the intense zesty aromas of the Malvasija. This is a brilliant world class wine packed with explosive mouth filling apricot fruit balanced with long lingering acidity and minerals. The 2010 vintage which is now long sold out in Crotia rated 92/100.

This indigenous varietal to Istria, was believed to be for a long number of years a part of the Malvasia family (Malvasia, Malmsey) from the Mediterranean area. However the two varietals, except for the name, don't share many similarities. Whereas most Mediterranean Malvasia produce sweet wine, Malvasia Istriana is best when produced as dry white wine. By the combination of its fragrance (apricots, pears, yellow flowers, peaches) and by its structure, this wine is closer to a premium Condrieu. Exceptionally refreshing, but full-bodied, this wine is golden yellow color with a greenish hue; clear and consistent, defined aroma of fruit and flower, with an intensive aroma of elderberry; dry, soft, fresh and slightly salty to the taste; medium-bodied, balanced and harmonic with an almond aftertaste. http://www.leisers.com/r/products/kozlovic-malvasia-2012

Enjingi 2011 Welschriesling-Graševina, Solvania, Croatia - In 1890, Koloman Enjingi planted the family's first vineyard in the village of Hrnjevac, on the slopes of mount Krndija. He passed the vineyards and wine to his son Martin, and Martin did the same thing – his son Vaclav, Koloman's grandson, took over the family business. The third generation of the Enjingi family continued the family business in spite of the stormy war times. Finally, in 1957, Koloman’s great-grandson Ivan took over the family's vineyard. He became the first Croatian private wine producer. In 1972 he started selling bottled wine, instead of the common practice of bulk wine sale. http://www.enjingi.hr/en_history.html

Overlooking the valley of Požega, the vineyards of the Enjingi family today spread on 50 hectares in the Kutjevo appellation. Vineyards, with an average age of 15 years, are planted on the southern slopes of the mount Krndija, on diverse soils, from sandy loams to extremely rocky soils, which give great complexity and fine minerality to the wines. Some of the vineyards are more than 35 years old.

Welschriesling is an ancient variety of white grape, unrelated to the Rhine Riesling, that is grown throughout Central Europe. In Croatia, Graševina is the most planted white grape variety. It is grown in all the inland wine regions, particularly in Kutjevo municipality and around Ilok, both in the far east of the country. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Welschriesling


Winemaker Ivan Enjingi adds a touch of sophistication to this hand-crafted fresh, crisp, easy-drinking Welschriesling -- or as the Croats call it, Graševina. Dried apple and autumn fruit aromas combined with mouthwatering acidity and minerality creates a unique Graševina that is fresh and crisp, yet complex and full-bodied. Pairs with beef or pork tenderloin, goulash, cured meats, soft aged cheeses, an exotic salad, or even just by itself. http://madisonwinecellar.com/wine-store/wine/269-ivan-enjingi-grasevina-fresh/

Pullus 2011 Pinot Noir, Stajerska, Slovenia










Piližota Babić - White Label 2010 Kvalitetno, Dalmatia, Croatia
International interest in Croatian wine has been piqued in the past decade or two, not least since Mike Grgich returned to his Dalmatian homeland from the Napa Valley. Grgich is famous as the winemaker behind the Montelena Chardonnay that was chosen as best white wine in the Paris Judgment of 1976. The effect of this was compounded by the revelation that Zinfandel, the most American of wine grapes, is one and the same as Croatia's Crljenak Kasteljanski.



Babic is a blue-skinned grape variety indigenous to Croatia's Dalmatian coast. Recent DNA profiling has revealed that the variety is directly related to the better-known Dobricic variety, which in turn means it is related to Croatia's signature red-wine grape, Plavac Mali.

Babic is a consistently high-yielder, yet the best examples come from less-fertile soils, which lower the yields and concentrate the flavors. The most common flavors to shine through in these wines are plums, dark berries, figs and sometimes tobacco and spice. Babic wines are inky and dense in appearance and full bodied thanks to the variety's generous tannins.

From the vineyards on the outskirts of Šibenik, Croatia, comes this Babić by winemaker Ivica Piližota. Aged for 12 months in large Slavonian oak, this Babić gives us aromas of ripe dark fruit, particularly blackberries, blueberries, plums, and figs. These aromas are accompanied by the typical earthiness and barnyard of the Babić grape, which is what gives this wine a certain body weight. The palate is traditional Babić – smooth, yet firm, mouthwatering acidity. It is gamey, and its petite tannins allow for a gentle finish. A very friendly and intriguing character invites you to keep on sipping. Enjoy with red meats, wild game, cured meats and cheese. http://madisonwinecellar.com/wine-store/wine/270-babic-pilizota-kvalitetno/

Very little Babić wine is currently exported. Piližota Babić is the only 100% Babić wine on the U.S. market (actually Piližota offers two labels, the so-called “black label” Babić and the “white label” Babić. The black label is a premium wine that is oak aged and costs about $24, while the white label is the entry-level offering costing about $18). Piližota Babić is imported by Vinum USA.  http://winesofcroatia.wordpress.com/category/pilizota/

Skaramuca, 2008 Dingac Plavac mali, Dalmatia, Croatia

Designated in 1961, the precipitous south facing sea cliff vineyards of Dingač is Croatia’s first protected wine region ...  native grape variety Plavac Mali (little blue). Only recently discovered to be the centuries old offspring of Crljenak Kaštelanski, or what we call ... zinfandel.

Founded in 1937 by 550 winegrowing households contributing as one collective, since the privatization which followed the end of Yugoslav Communism in the early 90’s http://www.bluedanubewine.com/winery/dingac/

Dingac wine is made by Ivo Skaramuca from the indigenous Plavac Mali grape variety grown in a very small and limited locality known as Dingac on the steep southern slopes of the Peljesac Peninsula — a mere 168 acres. http://www.bluedanubewine.com/winery/skaramuca/

Produced and bottled at the Ivo Skaramuča estate, this balanced wine lingers pleasantly on the palate. Its captivating aroma, fullbodied flavor, subtle vanilla and wild cherry nuances will satisfy the most discerning wine lover. http://madisonwinecellar.com/wine-store/wine/281-ivo-skaramuca-dingac/

The Finalists in the 2013 Wine Blog Awards Are Announced

The Finalists in the 2013 Wine Blog Awards Are Announced

Best Blog Post of the Year
Finalists:

1- W. Blake Gray’s Darth Vader is My Lover: Revelations about Brettanomyces
http://palatepress.com/2013/01/wine/revelations-about-brettanomyces-in-wine/

2- Lilyelaine Wakawaka’s Escaping Convention: Calibrating to Stark Conditions, a Conversation with Greg Brewer
http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2013/02/07/escaping-convention-calibrating-to-stark-conditions-a-conversation-with-greg-brewer/

3- Katie Kelly Bell’s Adventures in Taste
http://www.forbes.com/sites/katiebell/2012/07/09/is-there-really-a-taste-difference-between-cheap-and-expensive-wines/

4- Ron Washam’s Blind Book Review–”How to Love Wine”
http://hosemasterofwine.blogspot.com/2012/10/blind-book-reviewing-how-to-love-wine.html

5- Alfonso Cevola’s Rape of the Veneto
http://acevola.blogspot.com/2012/12/the-rape-of-veneto.html

6- Ron Washam’s The Death of WIne Critics
http://hosemasterofwine.blogspot.com/2013/03/lo-hai-qu-on-death-of-wine-critics.html

Best New Wine Blog:
Finalists:

1- Chasing the Vine
http://chasingthevine.com/

2- What’s in the Bottle
Know what you're drinking & what to pair it with – by Roger Killen
http://rogerbkillen.com/

3- Screwed
http://blogs.villagevoice.com/forkintheroad/unscrewed/

Best Overall Wine Blog:
Finalists:

1- Hosemaster of Wine
http://hosemasterofwine.blogspot.com/

2- 1 Wine Dude
http://www.1winedude.com/

3- The Terroirist
http://www.terroirist.com/

4- The UK Wine Show
http://www.thirtyfifty.co.uk/uk-wine-show.asp

5- Steve Heimoff
http://www.steveheimoff.com/