Sunday, July 8, 2012

Vino Argentino: a book review

I have long been intrigued by the mysterious lands of South America and the wines I've run across. I eagerly anticipated learning more when I ordered a new book: Vino Argentino: An Insider's Guide to the Wines and Wine Country of Argentina. This is Argentina as seen though the eyes of Laura Catena, the fourth generation to produce wine.

Vino ArgentinoCatena's father is the famous wine-maker Catena Zappata, who is the Robert Mondavi of Argentina wines, in that he spent much time experimenting with planting in different areas of the country, with different varietals, and using different techniques, until he found what worked best. Argentina is the fifth largest wine producer in the world.

I am familiar with Argentinian Malbec - a world-class red wine that can rival the best of French Bordeaux. But, I did not realize the contribution the very high altitudes (2,000 to 5,000 feet), intense sunlight and the dry, pourous, desert soils make towards a uniquely rich and intensely flavored wine that has soft, firm tannins that can allow it to age for decades.

Catena also introduces the many different regions of Argentina, their people, customs, culinary dishes - including a chapter on her favorite recipes like chimichurri and Dulce de Leche.

As a side, one of my co-workers is of Argentinian descent and, after briefly perusing the text, acclaimed he would bring me something. Next day he presented a small, foil-wrapped item. Turns out it was a cookie unique to Argentina of a cookie stuffed with dulce de leche (like caramel) and coated in chocolate. Yummers!

And wine, wine, wine .. especially the varieties that are uniquely Argentina: Bonarda and Torrontes. Catena writes that both have been shown to be different to similar grapes grown elsewhere in the world. Torrontes is the aromatic, delicately flavored white wine that reaches it's pinnacle in the more northerly latitudes of the Salta (North is closer to the equator and the rain forests), but high in the mountains, so the climate is very cool and exposed to more intense rays of the sun.

Catena also introduces some faces of Argentina wine: her life with her father and other respected wine makers of Argentina. A nice insight are her recollections of times spent with workd-renowned wine consultants Eric de Rothshilds and Michel Rolland.

The book is an easy read, but rather light - I wanted to know more! But, maybe that's my fault for my unquenching curiosity. Or, maybe that's what Catena was aiming for .. I now long to read more, more, more. And to try more wines from there, as I have a better idea what went into them. But, I want to know more about the people and the stories behind the wines.

And to travel! My co-worker has family there - I should visit! I want to experience the bustling French designed city of Buenas Aires, visit the snow-capped mountain vineyards, motor down the dirt roads of northern Salta, where herds of cattle may block your path and experience the barbeque and rich, grass-fed beef that is special to Argentina.

OK So maybe this book DID get to me - more than I had first suspected. Try it - you'll like it!

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